



I left Panama City on late on the Tuesday afternoon, so I had a good view of the Panama Canal as we crossed over the Bridge of the Americas on the way back to David. We arrived in David after dark, and I had no idea what hotel to stay in, but luckily there were a couple of other Americans on the bus. The one guy had just arrived in Panama and spoke no Spanish, but the other guy had been living here for two years working for the Peace Corps and he recommended a good cheap hotel. So me and the newly arrived guy took a taxi to the hotel. It was only $12.50 a night but it was luxurious for me. I enjoyed the air-conditioning and had my first hot shower since I arrived in Central America.
The American guy and I decided to check out the bar scene in David so we walked around to a couple of bars. Since the beer was only 50 cents a bottle and a meal only $1.50, it wasn't real expensive. The guy was 32 years old from Seattle and had just retired from professional boxing. He had a lot of interesting stories about the things that happen in pro boxing and the politics behind it. He had to retire because his last match gave him a bad concussion. However, I only noticed his boxing 'stutter' after he had a couple beers. His parents were sailing around the world but there was a family emergency, so he was flying down to watch the yacht for a month. He invited me to stop by later, but I didn't have time.
The next morning I took an old school bus to the mountain village of Boquete. It is a really beautiful town nestled in a valley. The main industries of the town are coffee growing, flower growing and tourism, so that sort of indicates how pretty it is. Also it was a nice cool change to the rest of Panama. I arrived planning on hiking and camping in the national park but I had no map so I bought a snack and sat in the park to decide what to do next. I was then approached by an extremely friendly Panamanian named Pancho who owned the hostel across the street. Since the hostel was quite nice and only $6.50 a night I decided to stay. Pancho was very helpful and he gave me a map and a whole bunch of info about what to see in the area. I met his Chilean wife and his son and he talked about how he met her playing basketball in Chile. I took an afternoon walk through some of the pretty mountain coffee plantations. In the evening Pancho had a party and I met all the other people staying in the hostel. There was two girls and a guy from Spain, a girl from Argentina and a guy from San Francisco. There was also a guy there who owned a hotel down by the beach and he invited everyone to come down and celebrate his birthday on the weekend with free drinks for everybody. Unfortunately I had to leave before then, but I enjoyed a number of glasses of rum I was offered at the party.
The next morning I woke up at 6:00 am because I planned to climb the nearby volcano and Pancho said that it clouds up in the afternoon. I took a taxi to the end of the paved road and it was an uphill climb of 15 km from there. After about 1 or 2 km of walking through farmland, I arrived at the National Park. The park protects the Baru Volcano, which is an extinct volcano and at 11, 400 feet(3475 metres) is the highest mountain in Panama. The entire mountain is covered in cloud rainforests and is full of many types of birds. I saw many new kinds of birds and was especially impressed by the number of hummingbirds, even at high altitudes. I was even buzzed by a hummingbird at the summit. I never saw the famous quetzal though, although I saw some close relatives. The views were beautiful until about 10 am when the clouds rolled in. Even so, the clouds gave the forests an interesting atmosphere. I arrived at the summit at 11 am and it was quite cold. I had to put on a sweater and a jacket while I ate lunch and waiting for the clouds to clear. Apparently, the summit is one of the few places on earth where you can see the Atlantic and the Pacific at the same time, but I never got the chance. If I come again, I will make sure to camp just below the summit so I can get to the top for an clear sunrise. It rained the entire way down, and since I was already soaked, I decided to walk the entire 25 km back to town. I was exhausted and all my stuff was soaked but I definitely would do it again if I'm ever back there.
The next day was Easter Friday, which is an extremely important day in Catholic Latin America. Easter is probably more important than Christmas here. I noticed that as the day went by, more and more well-off Panamanian tourists arrived and the town began to be crowded. I decided to walk along the town's main river. It was a pretty mountain stream and I climbed through some beautiful valleys. The outskirts of Boquete has many houses where the Guayami Indians live. The women in this tribe all wear very colorful dresses and the men usually wear a collared shirt. They reminded me of Mennonites from Ontario because they stand out when they come into town, they remain very traditional, and they mostly work as farm workers for the various farms in the area. After climbing to the end of the paved road, I took one of the local bus/van back into town to avoid getting soaked in the afternoon shower. In the evening the hostel was packed full of Pancho's relatives who were visiting him for Easter. I was the only foreign traveler left. At around 9:00 the town had a huge Easter Friday procession where thousands of people walked from one church to another following the cross. There were a number of brightly decorated floats, some being carried by local young men. I imagine that the number of people in the procession was much more than the number of people that actually live in the town. It was a very interesting experience because Easter is not nearly as important in Canada.
The next day I said goodbye to Pancho and his wife and I started to head back to Costa Rica. I wanted to avoid the Sunday rush at the border, so I planned to head back to San Jose to spend the night. By now, I was getting pretty good at the buses, so decided to take the local buses back. I took one bus back to David, then I took a bus to the Costa Rican border. I crossed back relatively easy. I was deciding the best way to return to San Jose when I was approached by a couple of kids. One was trying to sell me a ticket to San Jose for tomorrow and the other was looking for people going to San Jose to fill a minivan. I decided that the minivan trip would be interesting, especially because it was the same price as the bus and the van was air-conditioned. The driver of the minivan was a very friendly Panamanian who had lived the last 16 years in Costa Rica. He had learned English from being a taxi driver and he was eager to practice it with me while we waited for the van to fill up. Eventually, a large group showed up and after the border checks of the van and the luggage we finally got under way for the 7 hour trip. The van was crammed full, but I managed to find some space in the front seat because the driver wanted to practice english, so I got a much better view of the journey than the bus ride before. Strangely enough, my best wildlife sighting so far occured on the drive back. We reached the mountain highlands after dark and the headlights shone on a small animal on the road. It looked like a house cat, but as we got closer it was leopard colored. It seemed very confused and we had to brake before it ran off the road. The driver was very excited and said that he had only ever seen that type of 'tigre' in zoos. I later looked it up and it was probably an oncilla, also known as a tiger cat, one of the rarest cats in Costa Rica, living mostly in South America. I doubt I will be able to top that animal sighting for the rest of my trip.
That night I stayed in the same hostel in San Jose as the one at the beginning of the trip. The next morning I took a tour of the city of San Jose and was impressed by some of the buildings in the city and of the mountain views. At noon I took the bus back to Bagaces and watched many traffic jams and overheated cars on the opposite side of the road as everybody tried to return to the big city after the Easter Holiday. Panama is definitely a place I'd like to go back to, as there are so many things that I haven't seen. But now I will only have weekends to travel, but there are still plenty of places in Costa Rica that I still haven't seen.
2 comments:
Did you take a lot pics on the volcano? I don't know how anyone would even consider camping in a place like Algonquin after trekking in a rainforest...
Reading your blog always brings a smile to my face. Our intrepid adventurer! My hats off to you good sir.
I thought you walked alot in Japan lol. You know if I was there I would be whinning about the rain and the 25km trek back. No wait... I wouldnt be whinning cause I would be hallucinating from the fatigue. Oh brings back memories of Nikko lol.
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